Greek Antiquities, Long Fragile, Are Endangered by Austerity

[Kosmo]

KYTHIRA, Greece

[Kosmo]

[caesar novus]

Everyone posts problems, but i guess its up to us royalty to give solutions. An italian military base, which you walk by if use the train to access outer reaches of via appia, has the most intimidating keep out signs i have ever seen. Take a picture of its flourescent image of a sentry rifleman locking eyes with you and intently squeezing off a round at your forehead. Make a hundred copies and stick them up around all sites you wish to protect... don't worry about permission.

 

I would prioritize greek sites of the roman colonial period, or roman italy itself. At least some robbers might switch to unmarked sites just to be safe. Or maybe you can get a law passed like publious in the founding of roman republic, where citizens can execute bad guys without trial for the worst crimes, like pretending to be king (oops). I took a picture of a sentry sign, but it turned out fuzzy. Ps. Travel to italy and greece is probably very affordable now. I went during a terror scare for about half the usual air and (locally negotiated) hotel price .

[caesar novus]

Oh, Torricola is the name of the train stop embedded in a military base and a reasonable walk to via appia just beyond the area frequented by tourists. No need for directions because the sinister signs line the only way out. Road ends in a t with larger road, where you go right and cock your ear for small cars going full throttle. If two come from oppo directions, be ready to throw yourself into the muddy ditch. The next intersection is appia where you go left to get back towards center.

 

Hmmm, maybe i can get back there myself if things get worse. I was already tempted to protect one roman monument there which female walkers use as a urinal due to the privacy it kind of affords... the men dont seek much privacy. Urine has got to be bad for old roman bricks, but i suppose its less risky to kick out the peeing cats rather than woman. But i could post signs...

Edited June 14, 2012 by caesar novus

[caesar novus]

This article claims looting has entered a new phase, with egyptian middle class folks turning to surreptious digging... and sometimes dying in cave ins. I wonder if something similar might happen in greece, based on reports of new desperation there... maybe midnight raids on delos?

I hope the foresight of my earlier post will permit me some further topic drift. I have heard of Italy specifically projecting a shortfall of tourists in next few months. Also, the many hostel-like properties owned by the vatican are facing losing their tax free status, perhaps giving a last opportunity for the so called monastery or convent stays at a big discount (there is a web site for these properties, their stated drawback being night lockup of front door).

 

So lets brainstorm about a visit, maybe just after the heat of the summer. A bargain for ourselves and more eyes on the monuments to scare away statue thieves or whatever. My brain is just stuck on Appia Antica, and the Terricola train station which saves you from chaotic bus travel. I mentioned the best route if you (preferably on Sunday morning) use it to walk Antica inbound towards the city. But walking outbound should take you by some of the aquaducts and monuments that you normally only see in videos and pictures. You could return by train too, although no ticket seller and most trains don't stop.

 

Looking on google maps, there appears to be a shortcut to the outer part of Antica from the train station. Ideally you would jump the tracks and cut northeast thru a field, but there are likely fences. If you can walk along the tracks southeastward without getting shot by aformentioned sentry, then you can jog briefly north on Appia Attica to Appia Antica. Walk it east thru countryside, and turn back when hitting congestion. Hopefully you can soldier on past the train station and hit the inbound sites. A famous house (of 2 brothers) only opens their A.A. gates in the afternoon, but I believe the local racetrack site closes in the afternoon (catch22).

 

The first deli you see on the left marks the end of interesting part (and makes great sandwiches). If you have a ticket for the nearby monuments (or even baths of caracula...) you will get access to a reasonable bathroom. I'm thinking of not shooing urinaters away from a certain unguarded monument, because that's Italy's business, and maybe in our old age we will need to stop there too.

 

Walking further into Rome is hard because the roads get too narrow for walkers alongside cars. If you still are up for more, there is a walkable route to the left that goes near the monument complex for 300 or so massacred in ww2. The 90-something commander responsible is still under house arrest in Rome. I recently found he didn't just gather random citizens, but a few were actually involved in bravely blowing up parading troops. From there it is walkable into Rome, but not pretty. You could stumble on towards baths of Caracalla, because you probably got a combo ticket at A.A. sites good for that too.

Edited June 16, 2012 by caesar novus